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John Marshall's river expedition 200 years ago this month

Marshall, John
Chief Justice John Marshall

By Catherine Moore

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September 24, 2012 · Chief Justice John Marshall — remember him from history class? Does Marbury v. Madison ring any bells?

 

 

JOHN MARSHALL: Sometimes, our best opportunities come wrapped in our worst problems, Mr. Washington. It’s always been my belief that the only way to safeguard the Constitution was to put it in the hands of the judiciary. 

 

Years after that landmark supreme court case, Marshall traded in his judicial robes for a spy glass and a survey chain.  

   

The government hired him to lead a survey expedition through the rivers of western Virginia, which was still basically wilderness.  

 

Looming over the trip was a big question—would it be crazy, awesome, or even doable, to build a canal over the Allegheny Mountains to the Ohio River 

 

In Sept. of 1812, Marshall and his crew boarded a small wooden boat called a batteau, determined to find out.  

    

JOHN AVERILL: Anyway, this is the title of the map—A survey of the headwaters of the James River and the Greenbrier and Jackson River and the Great Kanawha or New River, and the High Road Between them.  

 

That’s Jon Averill. 

 

JA: Commencing at Lynchburg and ending at the falls of Kanawha in the state of Virginia.  

  

I caught up with him at his mountaintop farm outside of Hinton, WV.  

 

[TAPE OF ARRIVAL AT JON’S HOUSE] 

  

Jon has done a lot of research on the Marshall Expedition and the detailed survey map that it produced.  

 

JA: They would be sending people from the party out in different directions, especially if there was a rock outcropping, someplace where they could get a clear sighting. They would be doing a lot of preliminary drawings, calculations and things. They would have a little book they would be writing in, using the instruments of the day, a lot of triangulation to get the measurements.  

  

Now anyone familiar with the river route from Lynchburg to Kanawha Falls knows that Marshall’s survey would face at least two major challenges. One: the Allegheny Mountains. Two: the Lower New River Gorge, known today for its wild whitewater. So why go to all this trouble to chart a treacherous waterway?  

 

J.A.: George Washington was the one who had the vision for connecting western lands. It would have really benefitted Virginia. The idea was to have for Virginia this link westward that would eventually link with New Orleans. It would be this amazing trade route.  

  

Canals were really the interstate highways of their day. In a young nation with few good roads, they were hwat made trade happen.  

 

JA: The famous quote is smooth the road and make easy the way.  

 

C.M: Do you think when he wrote ‘smooth the road and make easy the way’ he knew what was in the Lower New?  

  

J.A.: LAUGHS Well, actually Washington did know the territory because he did surveying in the Kanawha Valley.  

  

C.M.: He was an ambitious man.  

  

JA: Yeah.  

  

To build a canal way over the Alleghenies would have required using all manner of technology to defy gravity. Here’s a good example. 

 

J.A.: In the New River Gorge Marshall talked about a series of three tow paths, one above the other. So the river rises, you just put the horse up one level. Then they would have rings through some of the rocks so you could just put a rope through them and pull the boat. They were going to get rid of a lot of those rocks.  

  

The backbreaking work would have come at a human cost too. They may not have had dynamite back in 1812, but they did have slave labor.  

 

Two hundred years later, another bold explorer enters the scene.  

 

ANDREW SHAW: I’m Andrew Shaw and I’m the trip leader of the Marshall Expedition.  

 

Andrew, a recent college graduate, built a batteau of his own and decided to retrace the entirety of Marshall’s survey route.  

 

A.S.: I really think Marshall’s trip is a testament to the lengths that our founders were willing to go to affect development in this country. I mean you think about a guy who turned 57 on a trip to go on a journey that arduous I think is really remarkable.  

  

With a grant from National Geographic under his belt, he set off with his crew of six friends, seeking a classic American river adventure. 

  

Andrew’s batteau, the Mary Marshall, is basically a long skinny barge. The flat-bottomed boat can cruise downstream with heavy loads, but when it’s time to reverse direction, he and his crew must laboriously pole the boat upriver with long wooden poles, which they did, for hundreds of miles. Here’s the rundown. 

  

A.S.: We started in Richmond on April 5th. Came upriver for 225 miles, 200 of which was on the James and then 25 of which was on the Jackson to Covington. That took us through the Piedmont and into the heart of Appalachia. We then crossed over the Alleghenies and put in basically exactly where Marshall did on the Greenbrier. And since then we’ve been living the high life. No more 14 hour days poling until midnight eating nothing but peanut butter and nutella. We’ve been enjoying the hospitality in WV. A lot of good food, bacon and eggs in the Dutch oven every morning in the fire pit on the boat. Life is good.  

  

When I first caught up with Andrew, he and his crew had just dropped anchor in Talcott, along the Greenbrier River. A group of excited school kids has come out on a rainy day for a parade around the boat deck deck.  

 

[TAPE OF SCHOOL KIDS] 

 

A.S.: West Virginia has been awesome. Everybody here has been really fired up about the project. People on the bank are excited to see us, excited to learn about the boat. We got a great reception in Alderson yesterday. Had an Alderson hearts Batteaux sign on the bridge. We really have had a great time meeting new people. It’s fun to be in a place where people appreciate your work.  

  

[MONTAGE OF COMMUNITY MEMBERS: These are early woodworking tools that anybody building a bateau he was very familiar with all these schools…I’m a retired river guide with 20 years on the New and the Gauley River…We’ve come a long way in transportation here but the river has always been a corridor…We have a great big history around here of river travel.  

  

As the Mary Marshall moved closer to its New River descent, locals came out of the woodwork to show their support and share their own knowledge of river history. Just as it was 200 years ago, says Jon Averill.  

  

JON AVERILL: I think people would have ridden and told their neighbors that this boat was coming and that these distinguished people were coming. I imagine as slow as this boat progressed down the Greenbrier River that everybody knew about it. I think it was probably a big event to these settlers.  

  

[TAPE OF SCHOOL KIDS: BYE! THANKS FOR COMING!]  

 

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